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Run by a Belgian expat and his Burmese wife, Thitaw Lay House in Kalaw is a cosy B&B just up the hill beyond Kalaw’s colonial train station. The name translates as ‘Little Forest House’, and sits amongst a smattering of trees and foliage that creep up the small mountain beyond the B&B. A monastery neighbours the hotel and hikes can be made out of the back of the compound to visit the monks, as well as the villages beyond and the Myint Mathi caves.
Thitaw Lay House Kalaw is made up of two large bungalows and a spacious studio. If staying in the bungalow ‘deepest’ into the forest (roughly a 30 second walk from the main house) you may well be invited to join the proprietor and his telescope in the quest for scintillating views of Venus and Saturn early in the morning. After this you can enjoy breakfast. The breakfast on offer is the finest Western-style breakfast of not only all the Kalaw hotels, but the whole of Myanmar. The buffet on offer includes bread baked fresh in Thitaw Lay’s own wood oven, crêpes de la mère de Marc, banana bread, and homemade jams and marmalades.