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Bengal has a rich textile heritage. Created by master artisans of ancient techniques, Bengal’s brightly patterned, intricate fabrics have a story to tell. These are tales of zamindars, Mughal emperors and wealthy European merchants. But also, quiet tales of spinners and weavers and small-time traders, for whom these textiles mean much more than just a fabric to be worn. These textiles are a window into the history of this region. As Darshan Shah says of baluchari silk, “The motifs of the saris weave a fascinating tale of tradition and change while documenting events of a bygone era.” Â
The artistry of Bengal is seeing a revival. For the sake of the heritage, but also for income generation. Therefore, these tales being spun are as much a tract for the future as they are a recollection of the past. Sampan’s Braided Tales artisan and textiles tour of India intends to tell this story with clarity and integrity.Â
This is the best craft and textiles tour in India. Our journey begins in Kolkata. Here we will introduce ourselves to the crafts of this region. We shall travel up to Santiniketan and meet the dynamic and creative artisans who are sustaining and innovating these textiles. Â
We travel on to Murshidabad, former capital of Nawabi Bengal, and then turn south, travelling beside the Hooghly River, to see the world’s pre-eminent muslin workshop and stay at the estate of a historic Indigo plantation. Â
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Sampan’s India fabrics and textiles tour looks at a range of textiles but focuses specifically on three: jamdani muslin, baluchari silk and kantha cotton.
The Sufi poet Abul Hasan Yamin ud-Din Khusrow wrote of muslin: “The fineness of the cloths is difficult to describe. A hundred yards of it can pass through the eye of a needle.” The Romans referred to muslin as “textile venti” or “woven winds”. Under Mughal rule, muslin was sent as tribute to Delhi. It was so fine, that once the Emperor Aurangzeb, aghast, raged at his daughter for appearing in public undressed, to which she retorted that she was wearing seven layers of Dhaka muslin.Â
Jamdani muslin is a fine, handwoven fabric renowned for its intricate patterns. Made from the finest cotton threads, jamdani is known for its floral and geometric motifs, which are meticulously woven into the fabric on a loom. After independence, muslin manufacturing in India was lost under the tide and preference given to khadi – the course cotton made famous by Gandhi’s “swadeshi” movement.Â
Baluchari silk is a distinguished handwoven fabric from Bengal. Baluchari silks have elaborate framed borders consisting of images depicting the sophisticated life of rulers, zamindars, affluent bankers and wealthy European traders. The images do not represent a narrative but instead mirror a particular activity which is repeated across the border. These figural representations act as a window to understanding various socio-cultural aspects and developments of society. The weaving process is complex, involving meticulous design creation and vibrant, contrasting colours. Traditionally crafted on a drawloom, baluchari silk showcases Bengal’s rich cultural heritage and artistic finesse.Â
Kantha is an ancient tradition of crafting patchwork cloth from rags. The term “kantha” refers to both the running stitch and the finished textile. It is a craft embraced by Bengali women of all rural backgrounds: from the wives of wealthy landlords to those of farmers.
Shamlu Dudeja of Malika’s Kantha Collection says:
“The Buddha and his men never wore new fabrics. They got old fabrics from various homes and they sewed them together. The village women also used the same running stitch. Three layers of fabric and two layers of air trapped between them, made a warm quilt. So, the men and the babies of their homes found these quilts very comfortable in the mild winters of Bengal. For baby skin, layers of soft, old, cuddly cottons are more comfortable than new cottons.”
For centuries, the art of kantha has been passed down from mother to daughter. See House of Wandering Silk for more information and deep dives into India textiles. Â
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Any thorough textile heritage tour of India, must also dive into the political and economic history of the region. The rise and fall of the power and wealth of the Nawabs of Bengal, is tightly linked with the story of Bengali fabrics.
The first Nawab of Bengal was Murshid Quli Khan. In 1704 he moved the Bengal capital from Dacca to Murshidabad. Dacca remained the centre of muslin production. In Murshidabad, silk was spun and it became a prosperous trading hub, financed by the powerful Jagat Seth banking family. This hub of commerce attracted British traders. Â
Siraj-ud-Daulah was the last independent Nawab. He clashed with Clive of the East India Company at the Battle of Plassey in 1757. Clive was victorious. Siraj-ud-Daulah was arrested by his former officers and killed. Â
The intention of Clive and his associates at the EIC had been to revive British trade on advantageous terms and secure the support of a more amicable Nawab. In reality, their actions led to the erosion of the Nawabs’ authority, plunging what was previously the most tranquil and lucrative region of the Mughal Empire into anarchy.Â
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Sampan believes that every journey should include a expansive exploration of the local cuisine. On our Braided Tales journey, our guests will be treated to sumptuous culinary delights throughout the 14 days. Our Welcome Supper on the first day will be a Bengali tasting menu hosted by the Glenburn Penthouse. We shall enjoy more Bengali food, as well as some Gujarati dishes, on day three at Weavers Studio. We have a dinner of homecooke tribal food at Nayana’s in Santiniketan, as well lunch at an ashram-cum-farm, and a lunch of home-cooked organic produce on another day, at another farm. At Bari Kothi near Murshidabad, every meal will be a deep dive into the flamboyant Sheherwali cusine.
Bengali cuisine is known for its varied use of flavours as well as its broad spread of confectioneries and desserts. It was strongly influenced by the Mughals who conquered Bengal in the 13th century and brought with them dishes from Persia and Arabia. Dishes such as biryani, korma and bhuna, once reserved for the higher classes, came to the masses via the cooks of the Mughals.
This influence continued under the British Raj. The confluence of cultures in Kolkata and Dhaka brought cooks and spice-mixers who assimilated into the local society. With these cooks came knowledge of spices such as mace, the use of ghee, and the practice of marinating meat with yoghurt and chilli. Desserts, previously based on jaggery, shifted to milk, cream and sugar, as well as more expensive spices such as cardamom and saffron.
Sheherwali cuisine originates from the Jain families of Rajasthan who settled in Murshidabad, Bengal, over 300 years ago. Invited by the Nawab of Murshidabad, these families blended their Rajasthani heritage with Bengali and Nawabi influences, creating a unique culinary tradition. The Sheherwalis, named for their urban sophistication, adapted local ingredients and cooking techniques while adhering to Jain dietary principles, such as vegetarianism and the exclusion of root vegetables.
Innovative dishes include kheere ki kachori (cucumber-filled pastry) and paniphal ka samosa (water chestnut samosa). The use of rose water (kewra) and saffron is prevalent, reflecting the community’s horticultural roots. Sheherwali meals often begin and end with sweets. Notable desserts are chhuare ka goli (dry dates with mawa and nuts) and nimas (a saffron-infused milk froth). Sheherwali cuisine is traditionally home-cooked and not found in restaurants. Recipes are family secrets, passed down through generations.
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On the inaugural edition of Sampan’s Braided Tales, one of our guests was Sarah Foot of Thread the Word. Sarah said afterwards:
“Everything was so considered and thoughtfully put together, we were impressed at every turn. From beautiful places to stay to the most incredible variety of delicious food, before I even get started on the craftmanship we saw, was nothing short of excellent. The range of textiles we were able to see being made first hand – woven on looms, naturally dyed by hand, exquisitely embroidered, made into both beautiful and practical products – was absolutely incredible. A total honour to have witnessed these things being made by such skilled artisans which would have never been possible without our experienced and knowledgeable guides. As a small group tour, the whole experience felt really intimate and tailored to our interests.”
Another guest, Bim from the UK, said:
“We have had such an adventure discovering many of the crafts and delights that West Bengal offer. [Sampan’s] attention to detail, their organisation, the huge variety of delights and experiences that unfolded were all exceptional and thrilling. This was the first time that they had offered this adventure and for anyone who loves and admires beautiful fabrics, delicious food, exceptional and individual artists with amazing stories look out for their next trip.”
And Charlie, a writer, also from the UK, said: “I don’t know quite what I had been expecting, but the trip definitely exceeded whatever my expectations were. […] My heart is full of joy from all we saw and felt and I’m sure the trip will continue to work its magic on me for a very very long time. Thank you.”
Let us know if you would like to speak to any of our former guests to get a first-hand account of the experiences. You can see more testimonials on our Visitors’ Book.
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